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Done swap - now I need help!!

 
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AdamOffline
Joined: 15 Nov 2005
Total posts: 42
Location: Vancouver, BC
Age: 45
Gender: Male
PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2006 1:34 pm    Post subject: Done swap - now I need help!! Reply with quote

So I just swapped a 7M-GE into my 85 Toyota 4x4. Big job but I got it done over the last 7 days and as of yesterday I'm driving it. I did rebuild the engine before I did the swap and that seemed to go fine.

I had read a bunch of stuff about people using heavy oils for breakin and I didn't know what else to do so I filled it with a 20/50 the first time. I cranked the starter for a bit (no ignition or fuel pump on) to prime the oil system. Started it up and after about 10 seconds it blew out the rubber gasket on the side of the oil filter (Fram 3614) and dumped about 2 quarts of oil on the ground. I was paying attention and shut it off right away. I figured maybe I hadn't tightened the filter properly so I put a new one on, filled with 20/50 again and started it again. Guess what happened? Oil filter gasket popped again.

I had lots of 10/30 on hand so I filled with that, new filter again, and fired it up. No problems, warmed it up with varying RPM's and shut it off. Changed the oil (which looked good, I could barely see anything metallic-looking) and the filter.

I drove around for a while, trying my best to do the break-in according to the Motoman method. All seemed well.

On my drive home I noticed that my oil pressure was showing very low (almost nothing at hot idle and still quite low at mid-rpm's). I wasn't in the mood for any more crap so I just went to bed.

This morning I started it up and the oil pressure is very good when cold. Higher than my 22R-E ever was and it ran extremely well. As it warms up, the pressure drops lower than I think it should be. This is using the pressure sender and gauge from the 22R-E since the 7M sender doesn't work.

Unfortunately I don't have absolute PSI numbers, but relative to the 22R-E it does not look right. At warm idle the needle is pretty much at 0 and it does move with higher RPM's but not nearly as high as it is at cold idle.

Before re-assembly, I shimmed the oil pump relief valve by about 8mm (using a brass slug with a hole through it). The relief valve slides smoothly in both directions. The oil pump gears measured on the tight side of factory specs so I just cleaned it out and re-used it. I was also able to bend the pickup tube to get it about 3/8" closer to the bottom of the pan.

What I can't understand it why the pressure changes so much from cold to hot using the 10/30 oil. If the filter was restrictive then I would expect it to be pretty bad cold or hot. I don't seem to be losing any oil to leaks (although it's still a bit hard to tell since the passenger side of the block is still pretty messy from the blown filter gaskets, and since I've only put about 40 miles on it).

I've read many, many threads about oil and learned a lot but I'm still kind of lost here and now I'm worried. I put a ton of time and money into this thing and I don't want to kill it...

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Adam
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4RnrRickOffline
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Joined: 02 Jun 2005
Total posts: 243
Location: PNW
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2006 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been running 10/30 in mine and on cold start up and I have up to 70+ psi on my aftermarket oil pressure gauge. but with a hot idle it barely registers, 3-5 psi. and for this motor from what I have found, this is normal.....
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'85 Xtra Cab (2wd, 22RTE, Auto => 4wd, 3RZ, w56, 2.28x4.70)
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AdamOffline
Joined: 15 Nov 2005
Total posts: 42
Location: Vancouver, BC
Age: 45
Gender: Male
PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2006 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rick...now I feel a little less like throwing up. Thanks!

I've been under SO much stress over this whole swap, largely due to the fact that its my daily driver and HAD to be finished in time for work this morning. The last 2 days have been hell with all the little problems popping up:

AFM signal to the COR wasn't working so I'm jumping the FP test circuit at present.

Code 14 and engine dying - turns out the connector at the coil/igniter was bad, wiggling it would kill the engine.

I relocated the PS pump to the drivers side to make room for my York but when I lowered the engine in it put the pump bracket right against my steering box so I had to space the box out 1/2" out from the frame so it would clear. I used some 1-3/4" diameter 4340 pucks that I made so hopefully they're hard enough to hold up to the stress.

For my PS high pressure line I cut the rubber line and the hard line at the steering box and hose clamped it on (3" of engagement and 2 hose clamps). Stupid. It lasted about 20 miles and popped off as I pulled into my driveway, spraying ATF all over the drivers side of my nice clean engine, driveway, etc. So I'm going to try welding a little bead around the end of the hard line to see if it will hold. For now, armstrong steering.

Due to the lack of clearance at between the pulleys and radiator I chained my motor mounts, pretty much the same way Rick did. Fine and dandy, but maybe I should have left a little slack in there. It's as good as solid now so even though the motor runs really smooth you can feel every little thing.

Anyway, I still have my health.......
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4RnrRickOffline
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hate deadlines like that - glad to hear you survived......

I would remove the 1/2" pucks and replace it with a single piece of 1/2" plate to increase the total contact patch otherwise I could forsee a future failure on the frame or steering box casting.

I just resued my PS hoses from my 85 4runner with no problems. I wonder why you couldn't???

My chained motor mounts have a little slack in them to stop these vibration from being transmitted. hopefully yours will break in and loosed up.....
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'85 Xtra Cab (2wd, 22RTE, Auto => 4wd, 3RZ, w56, 2.28x4.70)
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AdamOffline
Joined: 15 Nov 2005
Total posts: 42
Location: Vancouver, BC
Age: 45
Gender: Male
PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2006 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wanted to reuse my PS hoses but the bracket I made for the pump put it so close to the steering box that I had to move the box. That meant the hard line that's mounted on the frame right at the box also had to move and it's so bloody thick walled that it's very difficult to re-bend. I figured it was easier to just eliminate the long, bent hard line portion (I'm using the tranny cooler in my rad anyway). I'm going to re-work it a bit and see what happens. I think my big mistake was just pushing the hose over the hard line that I had cut. Without a lip at the end of the hard line there was nothing to stop it all from sliding off, no matter how tight the hose clamps were.
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