www.supracharged.com

Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2005 9:08 am Post subject:

i hope you figure it out ok. Just to run the motor theres very few wires that need to be connected if you are using the original ECU from the donor motor. I remember before i did my wiring i thought it was going to be the hardest part of the whole swap, it turned out to be practically the easiest but then again i had rob's awesome writeup to clear up what the wires all did Cool

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94 4runner
7MGTE / SAS / 35in MTRs

Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2005 11:06 am Post subject:

Let me explain some of my confusion here about teh wiring harness so you can see what I'm facing and hopefully someone that has does the swap with a Cressida harness can chime in and help me out.....

Please remember that the info below is from what I remember from dealing with it from about 6:00pm until 12:30am last night... So its probably close but don't take it as the truth if I called somethign wrong or didn't remember the exact number of wire in a plug.

See for a Supra swap you have three main connectors. C1, B1 and M1. C1 is suppose to have 5 wires and is next to the plenum. B1 has like 22 wires and is next to the ECU and M1 has like 6 wires and is next to the ECU. That is for the Supra harness. The cressida is different! the connector next to the plenum is B1 and has 3 wires. then the large plug that is suppose too have 22 wire next to the ECU is now actually two plugs B2 (12 wires) & B3 (10 wires) on the cressida harness. and the supra M1 plug on the cressida is called C1. Also note that these connectors are different shapes from teh cressida harness to teh supra harness.

So you can se how this is confusing.... not only did the names and shapes of the plugs change but a couple of them just switched names.....

Supra(C1) = Cressida(B1)
Supra(B1) = Cressida(B2 & B3)
Supra(M1) = Cressida(C1)

So after I figured that out then I looked at my supra info and compared a specific wire in the supra info to my cressida info for the symiliar plug and then seen if I could find that wire on my harness. in doing this I started to understand how to read the schematics quicker and easier. also in this process I had to strip the tape off several areas of the harness to trace the wires to try to understand where they went and why. So by the end of the night I was just flipping thorough the cressida manual looking for plug designations (like #7 & #12 terminal on B3 connection goes to the neutral start switch) and then if the wires matched the color and traced to approximately the correct location, I would label them with their actual function so when I got read to cut and splice I know what I was doing. But one part that I'm really confused on is I'm not sure what to do with one of the plugs coming out of the ECU since it goes into the main bundle under the cressida dash and not to the main engine harness like the other two plug coming out of the ECU.....
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Project Quasimodo
'85 Xtra Cab (2wd, 22RTE, Auto => 4wd, 3RZ, w56, 2.28x4.70)

Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2005 1:22 am Post subject:

So the wrecking yard finally got the 7M supra oil pan, pickup tube, dip stick and dip stick tube in today from Washington. So I got it all cleaned up and ready to bolt in when I discovered a major problem!! I should have also had them get me the supra oil pump and hard line! I've read about other people just swaping pans with the parts I listed above and no mention of the oil pumps being different. ARGH....

So this basically screws me on being able to go to the 'Con 4th of July weekend because with this screw up, I just don't see it happening. Not that big of a deal, but I was wanting to go. So atleast I can now lighten up on my tight schedule and get more sleep! Working a full time job in the day and the working at this at night untill 11:00-12:00 and only getting 5 hours of sleep is really start to wear on me....

So anyways I'm now going to have to find the correct oil pan and hardline before I can install the motor into the 4runner.

So now to explain what is going on here..... The cressida oil pan is a front sump. The supra oil pan is a center sump. Toyota never made a rear sump for the 7M. And since I've got crossover steering and very little lift, the front sump oil pan was just not going to work! So here is a comparision shot to show the difference.

And here is a shot of the pick up tubes. Notice how the supra pickup tube has a different flange on it then the cressida..... well right there that tells me I need to get a supra oil pump. by the time I figured this out I was only able to call one local parts house that was still open and I got a quote of $308 for a new oil pump and I'm assuming that is probably a reman with a core charge.

The other problem with the cressida oil pump is the hard line hangs down too far for the supra oil pan. So I'll also have to get a new one of those. but heres a picture of the cressida oil pump and hardline that won't work.

The other issue to tackle is the dip stick. as seen in this picture the red circle shows the boss on the block for the supra dip stick tube and the blue circle is for the cressida. Well if you try to put a cressida dip stick into a supra oil pan it will hit the bottom of the pan prematurely. I was just going to drill out the supra boss (as I have read on the web previously) and install a supra dip stick tube but I think I found a quicker and cleaner solution.

If you put a 90 degree twist in the cressida dip stick that will allow the end of the stick to flex to the left and slide down into the pan farther. so thats what I tried and it looks like its going to work out good.

After I got that all figured out I started working on the wiring harness some more. Luckily I was able to get to Sky's shop and look over his 4runner some more and I got some more notes about how his was done..... since his came from a cressida like mine....

But really its not as bad as it looks right there since the coiled up wires are ones that I've already pulled out of the main harness and those are the one I need.

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Project Quasimodo
'85 Xtra Cab (2wd, 22RTE, Auto => 4wd, 3RZ, w56, 2.28x4.70)

Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2005 8:34 am Post subject:

Here is a picture of the Supra oil pump and hardline that I need....

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Project Quasimodo
'85 Xtra Cab (2wd, 22RTE, Auto => 4wd, 3RZ, w56, 2.28x4.70)

Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2005 11:04 am Post subject:

What size lenght of bolt did you use for your engine stand? I dont have the tranny bolts so i can just use them.
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money for nothin and chicks for free

Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2005 11:48 am Post subject:

Sorry, I don't remember since I just found some in a box of bolts I had laying around......
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Project Quasimodo
'85 Xtra Cab (2wd, 22RTE, Auto => 4wd, 3RZ, w56, 2.28x4.70)

Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2005 11:26 pm Post subject:

First, I heard that the wrecking yard has found a couple of oil pumps that they are going to get pulled and checked out for me. So that will save me a bunch of money because a oil pump for a Supra is like $230 and then I'd have to buy about another $50 of stuff from the dealer for the hardline. The wrecking yard said that the price would be around $40-$50.... If I don't like the condition of the oil pumps, I guess I will just have to buy new.....

Well I worked on the wiring some more tonight. I finally traced all the wires out of the engine harness, ECU, Starter relay, Fuel Pump Relay & Circuit Opening relay. This is everything that I got rid of so far!

And here is the pile of tape I unwrapped.....

And now this harness is looking more manageable. But there is still a lot of wires that I don't need that I'm weeding through one at a time. I figure just take it slow and steady and don't eliminate anything until I know I don't need it.

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Project Quasimodo
'85 Xtra Cab (2wd, 22RTE, Auto => 4wd, 3RZ, w56, 2.28x4.70)

Posted: Fri Jun 24, 2005 8:31 pm Post subject:

i saw that you got that cover off that is over the spark plugs. What size allen is it? My ten is to small and my 19 is too big.
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money for nothin and chicks for free

Posted: Sat Jun 25, 2005 12:29 am Post subject:

I thinks its a 14mm.... I just found a metric bolt that had the right size head on it and then welded a nut to the threads on the other end. Then I just stuck a socket on the nut side and wall-la, homemade hex driver!

Well the wrecking yard couldn't find a good oil pump locally so I told them to forget about it and I bought a new one off of Ebay for $85.25....

Then I called up Toyota and bought a new hardline, banjo gasket, and compression sleeve for a 1989 Supra 7M-GE since those are the only other parts that are not idnetical from the 1989 Cressida that I need for the oil pan conversion. So by the end of next week, I should hopefully have those parts.

Now for some Tech....The 22RE and the 7M AFM have the same bolt pattern on them for the filter charger adapter. But the 22RE has a smaller square in the middle. So I took my old adapter and had the hole in the middle enlarged to the size required for the 7M which was 9/16" bigger... Thats going to let a lot more air into this motor... BTW I know I need to clean the Filter.....

I also went and bought a label maker so I could make nice labels for the wiring harness. My plan is to just wrap them up in the harness so if I ever have any issues down the road it won't be such a nightmare to figure out. I also eliminated another 13 wires and still got more to go!

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Project Quasimodo
'85 Xtra Cab (2wd, 22RTE, Auto => 4wd, 3RZ, w56, 2.28x4.70)

Posted: Sat Jun 25, 2005 7:54 pm Post subject:

Well I got the wiring harness all figured out (I think)! So I figured I better do a write-up now that its fresh in my head. I don’t have it connected to the 4runner wiring yet, but everything is labeled and ready to go. I’ve got 30 connections that I need to make but that’s EVERYTHING to make all the gauges work, relays, grounds, fuel pump resistor, back up lights, 4wd indicator, ECU, etc. I hear you only technically need about 10-12 wires to make it run but I wanted to try to do it right the first time and not have to patch stuff in after the fact.

****************************************************************

Currently I could not find any good information on the web regarding what had to be done to the Cressida wiring harness to be able to wire the motor for a motor swap since the Supra and Cressida wiring harnesses are different. So with the resources of Cressida and Supra Factory Electrical Manuals, the info I’ve found on the web for the Supra swap and info I received from two locals that have done the swap using a Cressida, I starting striping my donor harness down one wire at a time. Basically what I did was just find all the wires that went to the motor and kept those while I cut everything else out and labeling everything as I go. After I got that done I took what I had left over and compiled the follow info:

Important Wiring Connections for 1989 Toyota Cressida, Non-California, US model.
Please refer to a Cressida FSM for wire numbers in the plugs as I don’t feel like scanning a picture of each plug wire configuration.
(*) = means this must be connected to the vehicles wiring

B1 Connection - Dark Gray in color - located next to the intake plenum
Refer to as C1 Connection in a Supra
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, *IGN SW2 from AM2 Fuse, B-R
#2, *IGN SW2 from AM2 Fuse, B-R
#3, *EFI Main Relay #4*, B-R w/ Red dots

N1 Connection – Gray in color - located under the EGR
Auto Transmission Indicator Switch
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, *Backup Light Switch, R-B
#2, *Jumper to #3 to bypass Neutral Start Switch, B
#3, *Jumper to #2 to bypass Neutral Start Switch, B-W

N15 Connection – Gray in color - located under the EGR
Auto Transmission Indicator Switch
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, *I made this my new 4WD Indicator (was park light), G-W
#2, Ignore
#3, Ignore
#4, Ignore
#5, *Backup Light Power, Y w/Red dots
#6, Ignore

C1 Connection – White in color wrapped in foam - located next to the ECU
Refer to as M1 Connection in a Supra
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, *Tach, B-Y w/ Silver dots
#2, *Water Temp, Y-B w/ Silver dots
#3, *Ground, Br w/ Silver dots
#4, *Oil Pressure, Y w/ Silver dots
#5, Removed from plug
#6, *New 4WD Light, G-W w/ Silver dots
#7, Removed from plug
#8, Removed from plug
#9, Removed from plug
#10, Removed from plug
#11, Removed from plug
#12, Removed from plug

T3 Connection – Dark Gray in color - plugged into the ECU
Do nothing

T4 Connection – Dark Gray in color - plugged into the ECU
Do nothing

T5 Connection – Dark Gray in color - plugged into the ECU
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, *EFI Main Relay #2, W-R w/ Red dots
#2, *IGN Fuse, B-W w/ Silver Dots
#3, Removed from plug
#4, *EFI Main Relay #3 (M-Rel), Gray w/ Red Dots
#5, *Check Engine, TDCL (W), Y-R w/ Silver dots
#6, Fuel Pump Relay #3, G-R w/ Silver dots
#7, TDCL (TT), LG w/ Silver dots
#8, Removed from plug
#9, *Speed Sensor, V-W w/ Silver dots
#10, Removed from plug
#11, Circuit Opening Relay #3 & Starter Fuse & Cold start Injector, B w/ Red dots
#12, *EFI Main Relay #4 (+B), B-R w/ Silver dots
#13, *EFI Main Relay #4 (+B1), B-R w/ Silver dots
#14, Removed from plug
#15, Removed from plug
#16, Removed from plug
#17, Removed from plug
#18, Removed from plug
#19, Removed from plug
#20, Removed from plug
#21, Removed from plug
#22, Neutral Start Switch, B-W w/ Silver dots

T6 Connection – Dark Gray in color - Under steering column
TDCL – Toyota Diagnostic Communication Link
Remove everything from this plug except the connections from B2 & T5

B2 Connection – Dark Gray in color - small plug located next to the ECU
Refer to as part of the B1 Connection in a Supra
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, Removed from plug
#2, Removed from plug
#3, Removed from plug
#4, Removed from plug
#5, Removed from plug
#6, Removed from plug
#7, Removed from plug
#8, Removed from plug
#9, Removed from plug
#10, Removed from plug
#11, TDCL (TE2), LG-R w/ Silver dots
#12, TDCL (TE1), LG-B w/ Silver dots
#13, TDCL (ENG), Gray w/ Silver dots
#14, TDCL (E1), Brown w/ Silver dots
#15, Removed from plug
#16, Removed from plug

B3 Connection – Dark Gray in color - large plug located next to the ECU
Refer to as part of the B1 Connection in a Supra
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, Removed from plug
#2, Removed from plug
#3, Removed from plug
#4, *Backup Lights, R-B w/ Silver dots
#5, Fuel Pump Relay #1, Circuit Opening Relay #1, G-W w/ Silver dots
#6, *Ground, W-B w/ Silver dots
#7, *Starter Relay #4, B-W
#8, *AC / OBA Clutch, B w/ Red dots
#9, *Starter Fuse #4, Circuit Opening Relay #3, Cold Start Injector, B w/ Silver dots
#10, Removed from plug
#11, Circuit Relay #4, G w/ Silver dots
#12, *Starter Fuse #1, B
#13, *Backup Light Power from Engine Fuse, Y w/ Silver dots
#14, Removed from plug

Circuit Opening Relay
Located in the RH side kick panel of donor Cressida
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, Fuel Pump Relay #1, B3{#5}, G-W
#2, *EFI Main Relay #4, B-R
#3, Starter Fuse #4, T5{#11}, B3{#9}, B w/ Silver dots
#4, B3{#11}, G w/ Silver dots
#5, Removed
#6, *Ground, W-B w/ Silver dots

Fuel Pump Relay
Located in the RH side kick panel of donor Cressida
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, Circuit Opening Relay #1, G-W
#2, Fuel Pump Resistor #1, G-B w/ Red dots
#3, T5{#6}, G-R w/ Silver dots
#4, *Fuel Pump, Fuel Pump Resistor #2, B-R

The items/connections that I’m reusing from my 85 4runner originally equipped with a 22RE are as folllows:

EFI Fuse
Alternator Wiring
4Runner fuse box
SR5 dash
SR5 oil pressure sender
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Project Quasimodo
'85 Xtra Cab (2wd, 22RTE, Auto => 4wd, 3RZ, w56, 2.28x4.70)

Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2005 11:26 pm Post subject:

Okay I got alot done today...... well maybe not a lot, but atleast I got the huge step of putting the motor into the 4runner done!

So the First major event was installing the flywheel. I didn't have the correct bolts so I had to run to the store to buy some; the ones for the 22RE where 12MM and the cressida ones where too short. The ones I got where class 8.8 M10 X 1.25 X 25mm Long. Worked out good.

So the Second major event was installing the clutch... Well the pressure plate I got from MarlinCrawler was wrong. Not sure why, but it wouldn't bolt to the flywheel. It had a slightly smaller bolt circle and hole spacing was different. I knew that could be a possiblilty since Chris Gieger over the phone said they don't normally deal with the engine so he would have to call his supplier for the correct part numbers. Never dawned on me to try it before today....So anyway, after about 30 minutes of phone calls I found a OEM replacement clutch kit about 20 miles away.... So off for another parts run..... Got back to the house and it bolted up perfect. So now I'm going to have to call Marlin Crawler up Monday to figure out what happened and how to return it. This also means that I'm now using a OEM clutch and not a ceramic clutch. Not sure how I feel about that but time will tell.

Then onto trying to fit this engine into the engine bay! The only why I could figure out how to get it in without cutting the core support was to turn it sideways...

And then about halfway into the engine bay turn it back forward and this also requires the tranny to be pulled back out of the way.

See how tight of a fit it is!

Then after a bunch of jiggling and wiggling, all the swear words I know, and about an hour later I finally got it into place and the tranny engaged. I also had to make my thrid parts run for some bellhousing bolts. The (4) upper bolts are M10 X 1.25 X75 mm and the (4) lower bolts are M10 X 1.25 X 40mm.

This is how I hooked up the heater lines and brake booster vacuum line. And yes thats a dual diaphram booster installed with the 7MGE.... I've got about 3/16" between the plenum and the booster. NOT ideal by any means!!! My plans is to dent the booster to make a little more room for it. The EGR is also very close to the firewall, hopefully I can get in there and dent that also! I've also got some ideas on trying to lock the drivetrain down into position a little better that just factory mounts to hopefully stop the engine from moving around so much. We will see what happens.

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Project Quasimodo
'85 Xtra Cab (2wd, 22RTE, Auto => 4wd, 3RZ, w56, 2.28x4.70)

Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2005 11:27 pm Post subject:

So here how the motor mounts worked out. 7M block, W58 Bellhousing, W56 tranny, 5M upper mounts, 22R/RE rubbers, and the factory 85 4runner frame mounts. I got to give a lot of credit to whoever figured this combination out!!!!! It still amazes me that all these different factory toyota parts bolt together to make this conversion a bolt in!

Heres another shot of the dual diaphram booster and plenum clearance. I should also mention that this is with 2" of transfer case lift via Sky's Crossmember. Without the transfer case lift, it probably wouldn't clear!

Right now, my new 2" thick V6 radiator will not work the water pump and crank pulley hit it! I've only got about 2 1/2" of room to work with to the radiator mounting surface. I'll figure something out, but I want my factory hood latch! That project is for another day....

Here is how the fuel line, clutch line and starter worked out. Man its a PITA getting to those bolts!

And here is a shot of the Supra oil pan. Looks like it was designed for this application. And this is for all those people that said the Cressida pan would work. After taking some measurements of the Cressida pan, that one would interfer with the drag link by 1/2" at ride hieght! As shown in the picture I have 3 1/2" till by bump stop hit and I have 3 3/4" of clearance between either the tie rod or drag link versus the pan! Its just perfect. But I still need to get the oil pump and hardline before I can seal up the bottom of the motor.

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Project Quasimodo
'85 Xtra Cab (2wd, 22RTE, Auto => 4wd, 3RZ, w56, 2.28x4.70)

Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2005 12:33 am Post subject:

It sure doesn't feel like I got much done today......

I fabricated a AFM bracket to support it off the side of the head.

Heres what it looks like bolted up into place.

I also tweaked the main harness a bit to get a cleaner look and got that bolted to the firewall. I also fabbed up a fuel return line from some 1/4" tubing for the back of the firewall.

I got the charcoal canister bolted to the wheel well. I decided to just reuse the one from teh 22RE since it was a bit smaller than the 7M one and I have the mounting brackets. I hope it works alright in this position. I know som eof the early carb trucks have them down low like this.

And here is a mock up of my radiator clearance with a stock 2 core 4 cyl radiator. This isn't going to work.....

Or this.....I think the main reason why mine is so tight compared to others I've seen is that my 4runner has been in a major front end collision before I bought it. When I got it, the front crossmember was badly bent in and everything was teaked and busted up. I actually straighten it most of the way out with a chain and a big tree when I oringally built the rig 5 years ago!!!! So now that problem has resurfaced. Time to start cutting!

Here is a quick overall shot with both batteries in the engine compartment. I main just did this to get a overall picture of what space I had to put stuff.....

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Project Quasimodo
'85 Xtra Cab (2wd, 22RTE, Auto => 4wd, 3RZ, w56, 2.28x4.70)

Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2005 12:19 am Post subject:

Tonight, I figured out how to get a York mounted to this engine for OBA!

My orignal thought was to lower the Alternator and mount the York up high on the driver side of the engine. But I didn't like this option very much because it would put the alternator down in the crap which is a problem with the 22R series alternators and the mud and water here in Oregon. plus after I got the engine installed, there just wasn't enough room to relocate the alternator down low.

What I figured out tonight was how to relocate the PS pump to the driver side of the engine so I can mount the York in the original PS location. another problem this solved was my routing of the PS lines and the location for a PS reservior. Now that the PS pump is back near the steering box I can keep everything basically like OEM.

So what I did first was to cut up the OEM Cressida AC mount. Then I made a couple small adapter brackets. This took a pretty long time to figure it out and to get the alignment right but I think it turned out very simple and clean.

This is what the brackets look like assemblied to the engine:

From the other side:

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Project Quasimodo
'85 Xtra Cab (2wd, 22RTE, Auto => 4wd, 3RZ, w56, 2.28x4.70)

Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2005 12:21 am Post subject:

And with the pump installed:

From the top:

And then this is how it all turned out. I have to get one size longer belt so I can actually tension it properly but thats no big deal. And doing this I was even able to reuse my 85 high pressure power steering line.

Next up is to do the York, But I'm still waiting on the serpentine pulley. I guess the store got it in from my special order and sold it before I could pick it up so they had to order another one for me.....

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Project Quasimodo
'85 Xtra Cab (2wd, 22RTE, Auto => 4wd, 3RZ, w56, 2.28x4.70)