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4RnrRick is getting a 7M-GE / 7MGE Motor swap
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SuperRunnerOffline
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2005 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks like an old cat. Maybe plugged? 7M pulls quite a bit harder than the 22R....should anyway.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2005 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cat is good. I checked it before I had the exhuast shop install it.

From a stop the 7M pulls harder but at freeways speeds it really doesn't unless I shift it into 3rd......plus the previous 7M (motor #1) did the same thing....

Any ideas?
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Figure its time to update this thread again since I got Motor #3 out on the trail this last weekend.

The 4runner seemed to run pretty good and pretty much identical to Motor#1. And I said this about the first motor bu tI will say it again - Running up those mountain gravel roads was AWESOME! Before with the 22RE I would have to run 3rd or 4th low range up gravel roads and then if I wanted to drift a corner I would have to whip the steering wheel a bit and sometimes even blip the clutch to break the rear loose so it'll float out and around the corners. With this new motor I was running 2nd gear high range which was around 3500 rpm and then on the corners I would just give it more gas and the rear tires would just break loose and start to drift and then you start counter steering and that with the 36" iroks aired down to 5 psi. It was EXTREMELY smooth and controlled and not whippy or felt like it would loop out. And you could totally control the slide with the amount of gas you give it! Plus this motor LOVES the higher RPM's. What I mean by that is it really starts producing the power around 4000-5500 rpm and it doesn't even really sound wound up like the 22R/RE motors at that RPM. I think its also has to due to the fact that it has a wider power band compared to the 4 cylinders so you can stay on the gas longer before you need to shift.

I also crawled on the rocks and it felt pretty nice but I still need to get use to the feel for the clutch and where it engages. I think I only killed it a couple of times....





When I got back home I found a several minor problems, Some I knew about on teh trail, others I didn't......

I found a coolant leak on the back of the head. not sure where its coming from yet. just something I need to keep an eye on so I can figure out how to fix it. I think its just coming from a hose, but there are several back there and they are all a PITA to get to. and all I found was some coolant drips on the back of the head, so right now I have no idea where they came from. The coolant level was also down just a bit. Also the 180 degree thermostat really calmed down teh thermostat. Its not contantly going up and down any more.

The front of my motor has an oil leak. I'm not sure if thats coming from inside the timing cover or the front of the oil pan. So I'm going to have to watch that one also to figure out where its coming from.

The power steering pump also seems to have a little seepage. Kinda like the hoses are sweating..... I'll probably just leave that one alone for now since I really need to install a hydro assist setup. I don't think this Cressida/Supra PS pump has the flow or pressure compared to the Truck pumps because I was having lots of problems steering at idle. More than before. Although I just figured out that the supra also specs out ATF fluid for the power steering and not Standard Power Steering Fiuld which is what I filled it up with, Oops......

A hose melt on my OBA system. It was just too close to the exhaust, I would have thought 4-5" was far enough away but I guess not.

I also had some weird noises coming from my bell housing when I was on steep climbs. When I got home I found out that it was from a bolt that came out of my pressure plate assembly and ended up making some noises against my flywheel teeth in the bellhousing. So that means I should drop the tranny and get that fixed.....

When I was working under there I found a huge dent in my exhaust... I think this was from me jumping a that big whoop-dee on one of the gravel roads. - I was just going to fast and caught too much air...... With the old motor I would just float this bump with with the new motor I was just going to fast and landed it pretty hard.....But it was fun! Also the front axle appears to have survived it! Good thing I have plug welded and gussested balls.



Whats weird about that dent in the exhuast is its 3" to my bump stops with probably another 1/2" to max compression. But its 6" to the dent!!! So it must of been when I jumped the 4runner and it axle wrapped the rest of the way up and self clearanced itself...... really strange. Anyways I'm going to have to go back to the exhaust shop and have them make the exhaust a little tighter to the bell housing.

The alternator also had a dry bearing so I took that off and took it it apart. Well the brushes where also badly worn so I just took it to a local shop rebuild shop. I just got off the phone with them and they said that alternator was a 90 Amp one. Which is odd becasue Napa told be the Cressida was equppied with a 80A alternator. and a remaned one from them was going to run about $140 + core. So the electric shop told me that the rebuild with new bearings and brushes that would cost ~ $60. Then he said he could bump it up to 120Amps for about another $50. So I'm having him do that. That should make a nice alternator that should last a long time for $110. especially since the alternator on the 7M is on top of the motor unlike the 22R series where its down in the mud! Its a bit more than I was wanting to put into it right now, but that will make a nice setup running my dual batteries and my winch. I wonder if 120Amps is enough to run a onboard welder???

So far I'm happy with the performance of this motor #3.... I just got some minor bugs to work out as far as leaks and squeaks go....
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SuperRunnerOffline
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad you ahve a good weekend with it. I haven't been wheeling since March, and I was the passenger. Sad

Your leak in the front. Change the front main and the camshaft. It is liklely that all three are leaking, and if not, soon will be. I always change those befere I put a motor in anymore. THey are so easy to change...even after the motor is in and running, I can usually have them changed and everything back together and running in about 45 minutes. I wouldn't worry too much about the oil pump seal, I have never had one leak.

Cool deal on the alt. I wonder what they do to make it 120amp. I know that you can re-wind them yourself.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SuperRunner wrote:
Change the front main and the camshaft seal. It is liklely that all three are leaking, and if not, soon will be. I always change those befere I put a motor in anymore.


I already did that when I built this motor....... So technically they shouldn't be leaking........ along with every other seal on this motor. Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2005 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thought I should update the timeline since I'm now techinally on motor #3 ....

June 06, 2005 - decide that I'm going to do a 7M motor swap.

June 10, 2005 - Got motor from wrecking yard.

June 18, 2005 - Pulled 22RE from the 4Runner.

June 26, 2005 - 7M installed into 4runner.

Jul 08, 2005 - Drove it for the first time.

Aug 29, 2005 - After 1200 miles, I spun #4 rod bearing. luckily I still had 10 days left on the warranty.

Sep 01, 2005 - Got #2 7M from the wrecking yard.

Sep 16, 2005 - Returned #2 7M because after my inspection it turned out to be crap and the wrecking yard got me #3 7M.

Oct 07, 2005 - #3 7M is now installed and driving.

Oct 21, 2005 - After two trail runs and about 300 miles, the engine is still running good but my new throwout bearing is making some noise and the front of the motor has a small oil leak, Hopefully this weekedn I can tackle those issues.....
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a person asking me about the FSM schematics for the 89' Cressida so I scanned them and figure I would post links to them here.

Power source, Starting, Charging Schematic
http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/1464183-schematic1.GIF

ECU Schematic
http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/1464184-schematic2.GIF

Sorry they are so big but it was a PITA to scan these and then put them together digitally onto one file with my crappy photo editing software.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2005 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just heard that there is a photo of my 7M swap into my 85 4runner in the "motor swap section" of the Nov/Dec '05 issue of the 4WD Toyota Owners magazine....



So of course I had to order a copy of it to check it out..... I think this
is the photo that was used.



I didn't write the article - I just was asked to submit a photo to the writter. So we will see what it says....

UPDATE:Here is a copy of the article from 4wd Toyota Owners Magazine.
http://www.4wdtoyotaowner.com/

Click to load the article pages:
Page 1
Page 2
Page 3
Page 4

If your browser automatically resized the images, they will look like crap, so view them in full size....





Last weekend I also got a chance to play in the snow. If you haven't see the video, here it is.... 3:30 mins ~9MB
http://www.rcpics.net/img/68310





The 3rd motor has been running good and I think the gas mileage is still simliar to the first motor (13 mpg) although it might be a tad better but I have still yet to have a good long distance road test to know for sure.

But I'm still having occasion overheating issues when I'm at high rpms and low speeds. So I've decided to add a hood vent to increase the air flow though the engine bay. I have no idea how it will really work, but I figured it couldn't hurt the situation....

So I searched around a bit and I couldn't find anything I really like for a pre-made hood vent/scoop. plus I wanted to add one on each side of the engine so water and crap wouldn't get directed right on top of the motor and down inbetween the valve covers of the 7M so I decided to make my own 'nostril' type hood vents for a ram air effect that will force the air down on each side of theengine using a piece of mandel bent tubing. I'm also hoping that this curved piece will keep crap off my air filter. So this was my oringal idea....



So the first thing I did was to make a cardboard template of the curved hood profile and started cutting on that. when I was satisfied with the profile I transfered that to the hood and started cutting. Then I cut the tubing down to the profile I wanted and slowly ground on the hole until it was a tight fit. so far its turning out pretty nice for about the hour I was working on it.









It looks a little funky now but thats okay.... I'm hoping that once I get it welded into place and bondo on it and painted the same color, it should look better and more like a part of the hood instead of a scabbed on piece of metal in the shape of a shoe horn.
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'85 Xtra Cab (2wd, 22RTE, Auto => 4wd, 3RZ, w56, 2.28x4.70)


Last edited by 4RnrRick on Fri Nov 18, 2005 10:03 am; edited 1 time in total
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Paul ElbisserOffline
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2005 2:33 pm    Post subject: Bite the bullet Reply with quote

I recoment just bite the bullet and go aluminum!



I had the same issues, cost me a motor. I got no problems now! (but passing Echeck without a cat)[/code]
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4RnrRickOffline
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2005 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

But who makes a OEM stock replacement Alum radiator for the Toyota V6 radiator, which is what I'm currently set up for??? also those probably costs $300+ compared to the hood vents which is nearly free........ So thats what I'm trying right now. another reason why I wanted hood vents is to lower the engine bay temps so my cone filter can drawn cooler air into the motor.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2005 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the driver side hood vent made today and the hood cut.



I also got the vents bead blasted and the hood sanded down and ready for welding...


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Paul ElbisserOffline
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2005 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.supracharged.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27

Mine was under $200 with my filler. It's a GM V8 for a dirt track car. I use the stock upper hose from the Supra. cut to fit the filler in. I also use the stock lower hose. But added a small section of pipe along the lower frame rail and has a drain hole made in it. My radiator is a bit tall, they make one shorter. But I figured bigger is better.

Keep it in mind if your nostrels don't do the job.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hood vent welded



welds ground down



bondo



sanded



painted



Eventually I will get around to sanding the whole hood down and repainting the whole thing but for now this will work. Just wanted to make sure I could use the rig during turkey weekend....
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AdamOffline
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 11:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lookin good, Rick. Cooling is the thing I'm most worried about with my swap. I'm trying to plan for it now and I think I'm going to use the same rad as you and probably a similar fan setup.

I think that should help get more cold air in when you're moving. I'm still more concerned about what you've said is the biggest problem - slow speed, high rpm under heavy load.

A bunch of guys on supraforums.com have removed the rubber strip beneath the hood and shimmed up the back corners of the hood with washers. The engine generates a lot of heat and once it's there we need to let it escape as quickly as possible. The header wrap might help too...keep the heat inside the exhaust until its past the engine compartment.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2005 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually have several other ideas I can try but I'm trying the cheap stuff first before I go replacing and upgrading mymore expensive parts. Some of the other ideas are:

Add vent holes into cowl vent area from the engine bay. - DONE
Water wetter for the coolant.
Header warp on the exhaust manifold.
Shim the back of hood or vent it to the cowl vent area.
Air box or snorkle for the intake.
Smaller pulley on the water pump.
Oil cooler with a fan.
Higher flow electric fan.
Custom Aluminum radiator.
Custom Fan shroud.
Ceramic coating on the exhaust manifold.
Tube out the front of the 4runner.
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